My neighbor showed me his method of draining lines w/ an air compressor. I connected the hose to suck antifreeze thru the lines, but it pumped out thru the water heater drain. Bounder book is no help. Anybody out there with a "map" of the pipes and valves, and which to open and which to close? The marked valve for the water heater is turned to 'bypass.' Help.
'97 Bounder winterizing
- Thread starter woodsie
- Start date
C Nash
Senior Member
Re: '97 Bounder winterizing
Welcome to the forum Jack. If the w/h is turned to the bypass it should not be coming out the H/W drain on the tank. On our HR I pull the antifreeze with the pump and open each water valve, ont at a time, until I see the pink antifreeze flowing. Don't forget the commode and the rinse. Outside faucet if you have one and clothes washer. There are some here tha have the Bounder so maybe they can give you a step by step but most all are about the same. Don't forget to pour about a cupfull of antifreeze in all the drain traps. Also use only rv approved antifreeze. 2 gallon shoud be enough. Drain the holding tanks and fresh water tank. No need to add antifreeze to them IMO because if there is any water left in them there is room for expansion. Your bypass valve might not be working or you just have it in the wrong position. Don't know how yours is set up but it may have a check valve on one side that could be bad. Good luck just get it done before you have a hard freeze.
Welcome to the forum Jack. If the w/h is turned to the bypass it should not be coming out the H/W drain on the tank. On our HR I pull the antifreeze with the pump and open each water valve, ont at a time, until I see the pink antifreeze flowing. Don't forget the commode and the rinse. Outside faucet if you have one and clothes washer. There are some here tha have the Bounder so maybe they can give you a step by step but most all are about the same. Don't forget to pour about a cupfull of antifreeze in all the drain traps. Also use only rv approved antifreeze. 2 gallon shoud be enough. Drain the holding tanks and fresh water tank. No need to add antifreeze to them IMO because if there is any water left in them there is room for expansion. Your bypass valve might not be working or you just have it in the wrong position. Don't know how yours is set up but it may have a check valve on one side that could be bad. Good luck just get it done before you have a hard freeze.
Re: '97 Bounder winterizing
Yup, tried the bypass valve in both positions, but it still comes out the heater drain. There is one regular valve and I've put that open and closed, but still pumps out the water heater.
Looks like my next stop is at a dealer's shop!
Thanks for the reply!
Yup, tried the bypass valve in both positions, but it still comes out the heater drain. There is one regular valve and I've put that open and closed, but still pumps out the water heater.
Looks like my next stop is at a dealer's shop!
Thanks for the reply!
Bounder Boy
New Member
Re: '97 Bounder winterizing
Today is your lucky day Woodsie ! I also own a 97 Bounder. In the compartment where your water pump is located, look inside to the left. There is where my hot water bypass valve is located. It should be positioned up and down pointing at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock. "Hopefully" yours is just like mine and that will solve your problem. ALSO, don't forget to close the "low point" drains, and those are "real little" gate valves, mine being located in the same compartment behind the water pump.
I hope I have helped you out, if not let me know as I have all the factory manuals for that unit and also all the maintenance manuals for both the coach and the workhorse chassis. I am not mechanic but will be glad to look up any info you may need.
BB
Sorry didn't read your second post. BUT still willing to try and help you out. I would also check to see that the bypass valve is indeed connected. Sounds like maybe someone may have taken that out of line. ???????
Today is your lucky day Woodsie ! I also own a 97 Bounder. In the compartment where your water pump is located, look inside to the left. There is where my hot water bypass valve is located. It should be positioned up and down pointing at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock. "Hopefully" yours is just like mine and that will solve your problem. ALSO, don't forget to close the "low point" drains, and those are "real little" gate valves, mine being located in the same compartment behind the water pump.
I hope I have helped you out, if not let me know as I have all the factory manuals for that unit and also all the maintenance manuals for both the coach and the workhorse chassis. I am not mechanic but will be glad to look up any info you may need.
BB
Sorry didn't read your second post. BUT still willing to try and help you out. I would also check to see that the bypass valve is indeed connected. Sounds like maybe someone may have taken that out of line. ???????