Fridge not working

Discussion in 'General RVing' started by TonyMumford, Jan 25, 2005.

  1. TonyMumford

    TonyMumford New Member

    I have just imported a 32' Damon Daybreak Chevy Gas RV into the UK

    Having a few problems, such as indicators blowing fuses straight away, etc, but my main problem at the moment is the fridge not working on AC

    It is a Norcold 6362 - I think, and when you put the generator on it goes straight to LP in the auto switch position

    I have since put a 240v to 110v step down transformer in for shore power and that is the same

    On my drive at the moment, even with levelling jacks fully extended it isn't completely level side to side, but the gas works so I assume there isn't a problem there - the book says 3 degrees side to side and 6 degrees back to front (although I assume this is switched as the fridge sits the other way round)

    Could it be a house battery problem not supplying enough volts - although the gas works

    When I got the RV from the docks the house battery appeared to be completely shot with only 6 volts ! - since then (a week ago) it has improved via a charger and now cranks the generator over but is still only about 12.4 volts

    I have since purchased a new 110a leisure battery which has different terminals on and connected it in parallel mode via jump leads to the original battery but still the fridge only comes on in LP mode

    Not sure what else to do

    many thanks

  2. zigzagrv

    zigzagrv New Member

    Fridge not working

    Hi Tony.....try for help in troubleshooting your fridge. They have been very helpful to me. Good luck!
  3. Kirk

    Kirk Senior Member

    Fridge not working

    I would agree with ZIGZAGRV, but first you also need to realize that the refrigerator controls operate on 12V-dc power no matter what supplies the power to cool the refrigerator. All that is different in the operation in the two modes is the source of heat for the ammonia boiling chamber. Generally, cooling is more efficient when on propane because the electric heater is not as large a heat source. You don't say what year the RV is, but it is not unusual for the refrigerator to work on propane but not on electricty when the cooling unit begins to fail. If there is any smell of ammonia in or around the unit, or any yellow powder in the rear of the unit, it may be that the cooling unit is starting to fail.

    I do not believe that to be your porblem, as the power sense would seem to be more likely since it changes in auto mode. Have you checked in the rear of the refrigerator to be sure that there is 120V-ac power available to the outlet that supplies the refrigerator and that the unit is plugged in? It sounds to me as quite possible that there is no 120V power available to the refrigerator.
  4. TonyMumford

    TonyMumford New Member

    Fridge not working

    Thanks for the help and sorry for not responsing sooner but I'm probably 6-8 hours time difference

    I knew after I posted that I didn't put the year, it is a 1996 registration but manufactured in October 95

    I haven't noticed any ammonia smell or any yellow in or around the fridge or on the outside inspection hatch, although the shelves were very rusty so I had to rub them down and respray with domestic enamel

    Apparently it was working when it left Houston and I cant see how a boat trip should cause it to stop

    The fridge is definetely plugged (3 pin) in in the outside inspection hatch and all of the trip switches on the power box/12v inverter are ok

    I will put the new battery on today, and also check the 110v power socket in the outside inspection hatch with a meter, or plug the portable TV into it as that is the only portable 110v appliance I have
    (doesn't work here though as we are on 50Hz and the TV is 60Hz - but still get a rolling picture)

    Hopefully it might just be the 12v supply

    If it is the 110v socket I guess I will need to locate the problem - although if it is I dont suppose that would be too easy, or would it be possible to re route the cable to the microwave plug socket

    Many, Many thanks again for the support

    I will let you know how it goes


    ARCHER Senior Member

    Fridge not working

    Tony, also make sure your plug for shore power is plugged in inside the electrical storage area. If not plugged in, you won't get power to the outlet where fridge is plugged into. If you have power to outlet, make sure your switches are set correctly above fridge inside. Should be on Auto, and A/C. Might check inside rear access panel also to make sure that a fuse has not blown (inside the brains part of the fridge, should say fuses underneath). Lastly, check your circuit breakers inside to make sure one has not tripped. There are normally a couple places for the fuses/circuit set for a/c and one set for 12 volt. Check them all.
    Good luck and welcome to the forum. ;)
  6. TonyMumford

    TonyMumford New Member

    Fridge not working

    Thanks Archer

    I was at home earlier today and plugged the TV into the socket inside the outside fridge access panel and that worked ok

    Also checked fuses in the inside control panel a/c / 12v inverter and they were all ok

    The fridge has an auto/lp/off switch and I have left it on auto

    I am currently charging the new 110a leisure battery and will put that on tomorrow

    Finally, I didn't realise there were any fuses in the outside access panel but I will check in there

    Many thanks again

  7. srobbins

    srobbins New Member

    Fridge not working

    Remember that AC shore power in the states is 60Hz, while yours in the UK is 50 Hz. Transformers will convert voltage, but not frequency. You probably need to go through your rig to check each AC component onboard and see if it is frequency sensitive--or you'll need some kind of gizmo to convert not only voltage, but also frequency (there might be digital ways to do this, but the analog way is to hook a 240V/50Hz motor up to drive a 110V/60Hz generator--so it will be about the size and weight of your onboard gasoline generator). Purely resistive loads won't care, but anything with a motor (like your generator starter) will run only at 83% speed.

    In other words, your refrigerator malfunctioning might not be the only problem, just the first symptom of a larger problem.
  8. srobbins

    srobbins New Member

    Fridge not working

    Oops--correction to the above post--your starter motor is DC, so unaffected by AC frequency.
  9. TonyMumford

    TonyMumford New Member

    Fridge not working

    I have just managed to get back on line and thought I would give you all an update on the non working fridge situation

    The help pointing me in the 12v DC direction helped so much and I traced the fault to a DC board on the back of the fridge

    When I removed the cover there were two fuses, the top 3v one was ok but the bottom 5v one had blown

    I am always wary when a fuse has blown as something must have caused it, but I have had it on for a couple of days now giving it a few hours break in between and it has been working fine

    Next job is to trace why the fuse blows immediately that controls the turn signals

    Many thanks again everyone for your help

  10. ARCHER

    ARCHER Senior Member

    Fridge not working

    Tony,, glad the fridge problem seems to be corrected. Sounds like a short in the wire somewhere in the turn signal since it blows immediately. Make sure the wires are connected correctly and then start tracing them back to see if one has rubbed raw and is shorting out. Will take a while to trace. All turn signals or just left or right????
    Good luck and let us know what your find. ;)
  11. "007"

    "007" New Member

    Fridge not working

    Tony: just to make you aware the refrig. should also be of a ground fault outlet, maybe in bath or kitchen, for future reference.---"007" :)

    Newmar KS-3740 03 w-22

Share This Page