fridge problem


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lasoyatang

New Member
HI
I PLUGGED IN MY FRIDGE AND SELECTED AC (CAMPER WAS PLUGGED IN ) AND THE SCREEN SHOWED A LETTER A ON IT AND THE FRIDGE WILL NOT GET COLD, SO I PLACED IT ON AUTO AND TURNED ON THE PROPANE AND I REMOVED THE COVER ON THE BACK SIDE OF THE FRIDGE AND YOU CAN SEE A FLAME BACK THERE LIKE IT'S USING PROPANE TO RUN THE FRIDGE HOW DO I GET TO USE ELECTRICITY ?
 
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ironart

New Member
Re: fridge problem

Hi Lasoyatang,

If the camper was still plugged in when you checked for the flame than it seems that I doesn't know you have AC available....My old fridge was like that ..

If there is a slide switch that selects Propane, Elect or Auto.....slide that back and forth several times.....Sometimes the terminals get corroded...especially after sitting for some time....sliding the switch will have a tendency to clean them off a little and things should go back to normal.
 
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lasoyatang

New Member
Re: fridge problem

ironart thanks for replying . I have a digital display not a switch thanks any way

thanks
carlos
 
G

Guest

Guest
Re: fridge problem

u may have a ac element out or a board ,, what type fo firdge do u have ??? and is it getting cold on gas???? ;) :approve: :approve:
 
L

lasoyatang

New Member
Re: fridge problem

the fridge is cold so I think it is running off of the battery, it seems like I am not getting electricty into the camper. When I turn the microwave on the lights dim. Does anyone know what the prblem could be?
 
V

vanole

Senior Member
Re: fridge problem

lasoyatang,

Could also be as easy as your GFCI circuit needs to be reset. Still though need to find out why it popped if this is the case.

On my Dynasty early this summer if I plugged anything into the outlet above the kitchen sink it caused the GFCI circuit to pop and I had to go back to the restroom area to reset it. I have since fixed the culprit (bad recepticle) most folks I talked to thought it would be a refrig heater problem. However like you I got the "no AC code and an alarm" on my fridge because it is on the same GFCI circuit. Like you all other outlets, lights and ac's worked. Did not check the hotwater heater though.

Upon reading my owners manual it stated any outlet inside the coach within four feet of running water or outside the coach (your refrig is most likely plugged in outside the coach behind the access panel) that these outlets are also fed off the GFCI. Worth a look its free.

V/R
Jeff
 
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lasoyatang

New Member
Re: fridge problem

I looked for gfci plugs not one in the camper . what happens is when I plug it in and put it on ac or auto a displays a letter A on the screen so I have to put it on LP gas for the fridge to work . IF any one could help that would be great.

THANKS
Carlos
 
G

Guest

Guest
Re: fridge problem

well now another question for u ,, what model is the fridge ,, and what do u have for a plug ,, 50amp,, 30amp,, 20 amp ,,15amp ???? that would help out also ,, but if the fridge is getting cold ,, it has to be running on 120 volts ,,, the three way fridges are gone ,, well i still have one ,, but u said u had digital display ,, this tells me u have a 2 way fridge ,, and if i knew the model ,, i could tell u what the A means ,, but i am guessing auto matic ,,, but please let us know back on those 2 things ,,, ;) :approve: :approve: :approve: :)
 
Kirk

Kirk

Senior Member
Re: fridge problem

Carlos,

There are several of us here who have quite a bit of knowledge of RV refrigerators as well as service manuals and trouble shooting experience. To do anything more than guess, we need to know the manufacturer of the refrigerator, (most likely either Dometic or Norcold), the model it is and the year of manufacture would also help.

All modern RV refrigerators require 12V-DC power to operate at all as it supplies the power to the control circuitry and allows it to automatically select between the use of propane or 120V-AC power and a very few models also have the ability to use 12V-DC to supply the cooling. In most cases, they will have a choice of 120V, propane or automatic. In automatic it will select 120V power when available and use propane as the back-up supply.

If yours is set to automatic and yet selects propane to operate from, the means that either the 120V power is not available at the outlet for the refrigerator, a 120V fuse on the circuit board is blown, or the circuit board has failed. In most cases, if the heating element has failed most will still attempt to operate on 120V but will fail to cool.

I don't know what turning on the microwave would have on your lights since RV lights operate on 12V-DC power, and the microwave will only operate from 120V-AC power? It is very likely that your RV has a GFI outlet in the bathroom and that it also supplies power to the refrigerator. That could cause the problem that you have. Have you removed the access panel on the outside of the RV and tried to plug a light into the refrigerator outlet to see if there is power there? I strongly suspect that there is not.

Have you verified that you have 120v power to your inside outlets? Are you sure that there is power to the outlet where your RV is plugged in?
 
L

lasoyatang

New Member
Re: fridge problem

hi everyone
just got back from a camping trip sorry for not replying . I do have electricity coming in and the fridge worked really good on gas . when I open the door the lights are on in the fridge so that tells me I have electricity . It's a norcold fridge model n621 and I was wrong about the gfi plugs I have 3 in the camper .
 
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Gruffy

New Member
Re: fridge problem

The light in the fridge runs on 12 volts.

If you go outside and remove the cover behind the fridge you'll find it plugs in back there. Unplug it and check that plug. Use a lamp or trouble light. Let us know what you find.
 
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lasoyatang

New Member
Re: fridge problem

Hi everyone
thanks for all the help I think I got it, I removed the black cover behind the fridge and it had a blown glass fuse so I replaced it and it's running again thanks again to all that replied
 
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tberkhouse

New Member
RE: fridge problem

I ran across this discussion so figured someone can straighten me out. I have a Dometic RM2652 with Climate Control (CC) switch in my current RV. It took my quite a while to figure out that the unit used lots of my battery power (with the CC turned on) while dry camping. After turning it off, the unit hardly uses any battery power (but I don't know how many amps it draws in this mode). I am buying a new trailer and have a choice of refrigerators (e.g. Norcold, Dometic, with or without the CC switch, etc.). I am leaning toward a Dometic New Generation RM3962 or a Norcold N1095. However, the Norcold lists 3.3 amps usage when everything is running. I don't know about the Dometic RM3962. Since I most often dry camp, running off propane and batteries, does anyone know how the amps used of my current RM2652 (with the CC turned off) compares to the usage of the new RM3962 or the Norcold N1095?

Thanks.
 
Kirk

Kirk

Senior Member
Re: fridge problem

I suspect that either one will draw about 1.5A or so. They are both fused for 3A and it is pretty standard practice to fuse for about twice the typical load current. It would be no more than 2A run current.
 
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