ICE MAKER

Discussion in 'Class A / Diesel Pushers' started by H2H1, Aug 14, 2007.

  1. H2H1

    H2H1 Senior Member

    HEY GUYS ANYONE KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT AN ICEMAKER. THE ONE IN MY FW SOUTH WIND ISN'T WORKING AND I AM THINKING THERE IS A SHUT OFF VALVE TO THE WATER SUPPLY SOME WHERE. ANY SUGGESTION ON THIS :(
     
  2. Bush70

    Bush70 New Member

    Re: ICE MAKER

    It is a long shot , mine is a Allegro Bus but the shut off is under the kitchen cabnet. It should be in that area. You might have to remove the lower drawer of the cabnet to find it. Also on some there is a panel under the frig where the filter is. Good Luck
     
  3. hertig

    hertig Senior Member

    Re: ICE MAKER

    In mine there is an electrical valve, in the external refridgerator port (where the burner is).
     
  4. H2H1

    H2H1 Senior Member

    Re: ICE MAKER

    thanks for your help, I'll look at those to site and see if that will take care of the icemaker. U know how the DW is about ice for her tea. thanks again
     
  5. H2H1

    H2H1 Senior Member

    Re: ICE MAKER

    thanks for the info ,will check and see if it is there.
     
  6. H2H1

    H2H1 Senior Member

    Re: ICE MAKER

    thanks bush 70 I found the cut off it was in the out side compartment. However I still not getting any water to the ice maker. I am going to get my RV service tech to look into it when he comes out and install a 120 V out let in the basement for a side out TV that I am going to install. Any way I appreciate your input,
    Hollis
     
  7. firestormpro

    firestormpro New Member

    RE: ICE MAKER

    Hi what brand Reefer . The most common problem I find with ice makers is no power to the icemaker. Most have seperate plugs so look there. I have no way to know what your skill level is as to troubleshooting this yourself but it is real simple however you can get electcuted if you you don't watch what you are doing. most ice makers have 4 wires at the unit 120v hot 120v neutral ground and a 120v output to the water valve. on the 120v hot is often a temp sensor bulb inline clipped to the ice maker which keeps the unit off untill freezer is cold enough to make ice. Off the top of my head on a NORCOLD IM model the power path is as follows and it varies some with model but the result is allways the same there will be 4 wires coming down from the icemaker to just above the reefer control box (rear of Fridge) near the burner the Black is 120v hot the white is 120v neutral and the green is grounded to the frame the brown goes to the water control valve. on older models the power is from a seperate cord on newer models the power cord Y's at the control board input. First simple test requires a old extension cord and a couple of spade connectors I use the cheap 2 wire cords as they are simple and fine for this cut the female end off and install a female spade on each wire unplug the reefer and disconect the 2 wires from the water control valve attach the ends of the new cord you made to the valve and plug it in if you have water and the valve works you should be filling the ice maker ( this is how we winterize your icemaker) it won't take long to flood your freezr so if it is working will only need to be pluged in for 15 to 30 seconds. If you now have water in the icemaker than your water flow and water control valve work reconnect everything as it was and go inside the reefer. depending on how the icemake is installed you may or may not be able to remove the end cover (square plastic box on left hand end of icemaker). If the icemaker is mounted on the rear wall of the freezer you will have to unbolt it to service it if on the left hand wall the cover will be facing you and you can just pull the cover off. With the cover removed on a NORCOLD you will see a bunch of holes next to each hole is a letter or letters defining what the probe hole is for. On a DOMETIC icemaker you will see a couple of gears if you carefully remove the screw from the center of the large gear and remove the gear you can slightl rotate the shaft which will begin the cycle as soon as the cycle begins reinstall the large gear on the shaft as the unit slowly rotates it will turn on the tray heater and rotate the fingers to remove the cubes it will raise the arm then it will turn on the water valve to refill the tray lower the arm then it will stop and wait for the timer to begin again. That is for DOMETIC for NORCOLD you will see several holes labeled (this is from memory so if you try this be careful and chk for voltage first at each probe location) L should be 120v hot N should be 120v neautral T should be the timer M is the motor lead H is the heater circut if you use a meter set to AC volts betwen L and N you should see 120v ac and between N and the other locations you should have no voltage once this is correct set the meter to OHMs and check between N and H it should be around 60ohms indicating that heater circut is intact You should see continuity between N and M meaning the motor is intact now switch the meter to AMPS use the highest amp setting 10 amps at least to protect the meter. If you probe between L and T for a couple of seconds it will turn on the timer circut and begin the icemaker cycle just like the DOMETIC explained earlier it will turn on the tray heater rotate the fingers raise the arm refill the tray with water and lower the arm then stop and wait for the timer to begin again. If all of this works chk your Freezer Temp as nothing will happen if freezer does not freeze and often just a few degrees will make a differance as RV freezers are never as cold as Home freezers. Hope this Helps.
    Jim
     
  8. H2H1

    H2H1 Senior Member

    RE: ICE MAKER

    THANKS JIM, YOU MUST A TECH OR AT LEAST YOU SOUND SO SMART ABOUT THE SYSTEMS. I AM NOT THAT GOOD, I CAN DO SOME TRIAL AND ERROR BUT NOT AS DETAILED AS YOU SUGGESTED. I THINK I WILL WAIT AND GET MY REGULAR TECH/ REPAIRMAN TO LOOK INTO IT. I WOULD HATE TO DO HARM TO MY SELF OR THE MH.
    ONCE AGAIN THANKS FOR YOUR HELP. IT WAS HELPFUL BUT WAY OVER MY HEAD.
     

Share This Page