Powering your fridge via an inverter?

Discussion in 'General RVing' started by srobbins, May 9, 2005.

  1. srobbins

    srobbins New Member

    I'm thinking of installing an inverter in my class C mostly in order to run smaller AC appliances while underway or boondocking. I seem to recall reading somewhere that there are ways to run the fridge's AC power connection through an inverter, so you have the option of running the fridge on inverter-generated AC power instead of propane while underway.

    How and where do you do this? Most inverters are a box with an on/off switch and a few AC outlets on the front. On my rig the fridge's AC power connection is difficut to access.
    - Given the access issues, do you have to dedicate an inverter to the fridge if you go this route, or can you realistically use the same inverter for the fridge and other loads?
    - Do you configure the fridge so that it always gets its AC via the inverter, or can you switch between inverter AC and generator/shore power sources?
  2. Poppa

    Poppa Member

    Powering your fridge via an inverter?

    The easiest way to work out your situation would be to set the your entire system up to work off the invertor even though you won't be using it all the time. This will allow you to run your TV or what ever.

    Using a switch in the system to go from shore power to invertor power.

    Some of the other guys on this forumn can direct you to a web site or you can look up one your self that will help you do this.

    take care in buying the switch and make sure that it is designed to connect to only one power source at a time.
  3. Poppa

    Poppa Member

    Powering your fridge via an inverter?

    Forgot to mention, to do this you wwill need to upgrade your altenator to a higher amperage and use a larger battery
  4. hertig

    hertig Senior Member

    Powering your fridge via an inverter?

    Also, be aware that there are different types of inverters. The cheapest put out really crummy waveforms. Some devices will refuse to operate on this power, or operate in a degraded mode. Midrange is 'approximately' a sine wave. Better, but still can cause problems with some devices. The best is a 'True' sine wave, but these are usually the most expensive.

    Remember to get one big enough that it will handle any 'surge' requirements (mostly for startup on motors or compressors) as well as a 'steady state' rating which will cover everything you will want to cover at the same time.

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