Water Help, CRAZY mystery, Calling all Plumbers.

[Rod Just]

1999 Coachman 252 RKS (all OG components)… OK, I have a tough one for you!!! Water Pipe/Pump/Flow related for all you plumbing experts. Up to two days ago EVERYTHING was working PERFECTLY…Water Pressure, the Pump, City Water Hook-Up, Hot Water, ETC…EVERYTHING.


The Problem: I have COLD water & pressure coming out of the COLD side of the sink/valve in the Bathroom Sink and on the Bath Tub…NO Hot Water side PRESSURE?!?! When the HOT side is open, NOTHING comes out?! That is perplexing enough and can be trouble shot for hours alone, BUT, I have NEITHER HOT OR COLD in the Kitchen Sink to top it all off?!?


What I have done so far: Heated all of the lines (just in case, as it has been cold…ALTHOUGH, this does NOT explain the Kitchen sink NOT working ALL TOGETHER (there should still be cold), but I do hear some air from the Kitchen sink, but water never comes…


I have checked for leaks and found NOTHING.


I have reset the pump (although it still sounds fine and pushes the cold to the bath tub & bathroom sink.

I have emptied the Hot Water Heater tank and checked the pressure valve, and have bypassed it (two valve set up).

I have hooked up to city water (hose) and run the tank at the same time which ONLY gives MORE pressure to where the water flows.

I have tried with the hot water heater on AND off.

I have checked the aerators and they are clear.

I have checked the inputs on the pump and hot water heater and they are clear.


I am at a loss, but don’t want to take her in, lol… ANY ideas?

 

[C Nash]

Did you drain the hw tank when you winterized ? Has it filled bsck up although if you open bypass valves water should have flowed just be cold. Guess my next step would be seeing if water is getting to the hw tank.

 

[Jack Hall]

I had the same problem in the bathroom of my 1996 Holiday Rambler. The hot water tank had (probably) NEVER been flushed, and particles of sediment had clogged the hot water faucet in the bathroom sink, and shower. I disassembled the faucets, removed the sediment, and all was fine. It was a somewhat lengthy process, but not too difficult. If you remove the kitchen faucet, BE CAREFUL when hooking it up again. I replaced the kitchen faucet with a high clearance faucet. When reconnecting, I managed to crossthread the (plastic) connector, requiring me to replace the connector, meaning I had to buy a $70 Shark Bite crimping tool to get a leak proof connection. Total cost (above the sink cost) was in the near vicinity of $100 ( I think a bit above, but did not keep receipts). BTW the BLUE pipe thread seal is amazing stuff. If you let it sit overnite before pressurizing, it will seal all sorts of leak issues.