I am having a problem with my frig, when tring to run it off of 120volts it starts to cool then it goes into the check status. Could I need a new thermostat? I think it runs fine off gas, but I haven't really tried it out.
If you have a RM2610/2810 or newer or a RM2652/2852 or newer check and see if the refer door is closed. If it is closed then you need a new controll board. I recomend you replace the board with a Dinosaur Electronics Micro P-711 board and also recomend you buy it from RV Mobile @ www.rvmobile.com . They have the best prices. It's where I buy all my boards.
Bill, welcome to the forum. A few years ago, my Dometic was doing a similar thing and I called a mobile repair service for help. They said it was the board so ordered a new one. installed new board and it still would get over to LP after seconds. Long story short, I found the problem......loose outlet where fridge plugged in to. I replaced for less than $5.00, but it ended up costing me over $300.00 for new board, service call, etc. I now have the old board, and a new board. Had to replace the entire fridge last Dec while in Texas...ugh, good luck
Be sure to try it on propane before you take it to the RV shop. The best anyone can do from what we know is to guess. If it does the same thing on propane, there is a good chance that it is the control circuit board. But if it works fine on propane, then it still could be, but not very likely. It is also possible that it is related to the heater as well. What model of Dometic do you have and how old is it?
The heater element could be bad, but the circuit board is not smart enough to know that. There is another problem throwing the "check" light. My guess is the board. But if it really "starts to cool" it may not be. Like Kirk asks, what is your model, serial, and product number? NEED ALL THREE NUMBERS. With that info, I could call Dometic and get their opinion.
Thanks for all the help, It was the outlet. The thing about the outlets on my rig is that the wires slip down into a groove, The groove slits the insulation on the wires, and due to the fact that it is not a (real) secure connection, corrosion will build up on the bare wires. All I did was give the wires a tug to scrape off the corrosion and tighten the connection between the 2 little blades by pulling the opposite direction of the blades. I was back in bussiness.
Bill, that is great news. Glad it was something simple like the outlet. If I were you, I'd consider installing a regular outlet (with the silver/gold screws for holding the wires) (I had to put in a new box to install a regular outlet) in lieu of the ones used for RVs where the wires slide into the groove and cut into the insulation on the wiring. I put in another regular outlet in bedroom where the outlet was the same way. They won't vibrte loose in the furture and if you put a little DiLective (sp?) on the wires the corrosion won't happen.