just a little advice for anyone with a 1996 e-superduty or equivalent.
My boat trailer had a short in it that shorted out my Explorer Sportrack and my motorhome. I had no problem finding the blown fuses in the Sportrack, but no fuses were blown in the E-Superduty.
The Ford Garage in Hayward, WI spent almost five hours looking for the solution to the problem of no rear running lights, brake lights, and turns. No Luck.
Fortunately a Ford factory engineer was there on vacation. He said to remove the battery and battery tray in the engine compartment and check the connections behind the driver's side headlight. It turns out those connections have a tendency to corrode over time. I had the mechanics (2) start checking the circuitry from the pigtail in the back with a battery charger and then work forward. I proved that my bulbs and wiring were all good and "hot" until they got up into the engine compartment. They thought the use of the battery charger was really neat after they had given up earlier.
Any time I have a problem with trailer lighting, my Toad, or the Pigtail connector on the motorhome I check it out with the battery charger.
Another little tip: a three wire drop cord makes an excellent base for wiring a trailer. Each wire is insulated and all three are enclosed in a very durable and flexible rubber cover. One wire=left turn. one wire=right turn. one wire=running lites. You then run a separate ground wire. The drop cord is many times more durable than the lousy cheap flat four wires you get in the stores.
Norm B
My boat trailer had a short in it that shorted out my Explorer Sportrack and my motorhome. I had no problem finding the blown fuses in the Sportrack, but no fuses were blown in the E-Superduty.
The Ford Garage in Hayward, WI spent almost five hours looking for the solution to the problem of no rear running lights, brake lights, and turns. No Luck.
Fortunately a Ford factory engineer was there on vacation. He said to remove the battery and battery tray in the engine compartment and check the connections behind the driver's side headlight. It turns out those connections have a tendency to corrode over time. I had the mechanics (2) start checking the circuitry from the pigtail in the back with a battery charger and then work forward. I proved that my bulbs and wiring were all good and "hot" until they got up into the engine compartment. They thought the use of the battery charger was really neat after they had given up earlier.
Any time I have a problem with trailer lighting, my Toad, or the Pigtail connector on the motorhome I check it out with the battery charger.
Another little tip: a three wire drop cord makes an excellent base for wiring a trailer. Each wire is insulated and all three are enclosed in a very durable and flexible rubber cover. One wire=left turn. one wire=right turn. one wire=running lites. You then run a separate ground wire. The drop cord is many times more durable than the lousy cheap flat four wires you get in the stores.
Norm B
