I have an 84 Fleetwood Wilderness 24' travel trailer and the heating unit is kicking on but not igniting the propane...and the one time it did ignite it shut of and a minute later...is it just dirty or is there a bigger problem? Thanks
The short answer is yes.
The igniter in a furnace that old could well be dirty and causing a problem (the early residential pilotless units got a real bad reputation for such things in the '80s.)
Or you could have a bigger problem. There could be a bad electrical connection, a safety switch that isn't making contact, or a bad control unit.
Your best bet is to have someone who is good with gas furnaces take a look at it. This is not something to fool around with if you don't know what you're doing.
Hi fleetwoodfan, what is the make and model of the furnace, is it a pilot light or electronic ignition model? It could be a bad blower motor not spinning up fast enough or it could be a bad cicuit board or a bad gas control valve, as Ed posted this is not something for the novice to mess with. And it could very well be dirty.
:laugh: :bleh: :approve:
ALSO there is a fan door that sometimes sticks closed when the fan is turned on not allowing
the pilot to light. I am think that this door is a safety feature. If the blower motor is not operating up to full speed it will not light Just BeClaus
The #1 cause of a furnace not lighting it the sail switch(probably the door mentioned in previous post). The sail switch is in the circuit to the gas valve and if the blower does not move enough air for the furnace to operate safely, that switch does not close and the gas valve does not open. Exactly how the switch is in the circuit depends upon the make and model of the furnace. But the most common cause of the sail switch failing to close is low voltage, if you are operating on the RV's battery. Low battery voltage means that the blower truns more slowly and less air moves, thus no closing of the sail switch. If voltage is 11V or more at the motor, then that isn't the problem. Wasp nests are a common problem that restricts air flow as well. If the air movement was minimal, it would be possible to have the furnace light, then go off because the switch opened again. It is possible that the ignitor is bad, but that could be checked by lighting the flame with one of those butane gas grill lighters. If there is gas there, that will make it light. If it lights, and then goes out every time, that means that the flame sensor has failed, but on your furnace you probably have a seperate sensor from the ignitor probe, so it isn't likely that both have failed. Low gas pressure could also cause this problem. Gas pressure should be 11" of water column measured at the furnace. The ignitor circuit board could cause it, but not likely. The same is true for the over temperature limiter. To trouble shoot this problem you really need to have a good meter, and some knowledge. You could just start replacing parts, but you might replace a lot of expensive parts and never find the real problem.