The 'best' heat should come from the built in heating system. But this takes propane, which can be pricey. The 'cheapest' heat would probably be from plug in ceramic heaters, unless the park charges extra for using heaters or charges for actual electricity used.
Another consideration is to reduce the heating needed. This usually involves covering the windows and skylights/vents to reduce the heat loss in these particularly poor areas.
You are getting bad advice here.
First, the last thing you want to do is make the unit air tight. DO NOT COVER WINDOWS OPENINGS ETC. It will severely damage the coach. Moisture is a natural by product of you using the coach. It is going to escape one way or another. Secondly, if it doesn't get out it will damage the wallpaper, paneling, etc. Thirdly, you are creating an environment for mould and mildew which is dangerous to your health.
For your furnace to operate properly it needs a supply of air. This allows the air to not only circulate and achieve an optimum use of your furnaces. It will also reduce the pressure in the unit. Have at least two sources open such as a window cracked open as well as say a vent. Think of what happens if you blow air in to an enclosed space such as a balloon.
Be sure that you have not only operating smoke detectors but a monoxide detector as well.
Lastly, you don't say where you are but if you have heated tanks on the coach they are heated by your furnace which is on propane. If you got to ceramic or electric heaters be sure your furnace of the coach is still on to prevent freeze up. Also, if you do use portable heaters be sure that you have no kids or animals to knock them over.
I have a client that had his cat knock over a heater. He got out two days before Christmas with just his life. They called the fire department and when they got there, there was nothing to put out.
Dean IN Canada
Hey apadulo, In the first place, I don't know of any air tight RV's. You can cover the windows with 1/4 " reflective insulation without any problem. I've been doing it for 13 years. The moisture build up only lasts during extremely cold weather. As soon as it warms up you can air out the RV or use a de-humidifier..
A good Electric "cube" heater will have a shut off switch if it gets knocked over. Look for one that has the switch when you buy it. I use a PATTON heater that has the switch.
If it's cold enough to freeze your water pipes and holding tank it will be too cold to JUST use a small electric heater for warmth. It will be cold enough to use the propane furnace that heats your holding tanks and on-board water pipes.
Just use some common sense in what you are doing and you will be ok.
hey apadulo as a retired Chief of Fire Protection I agree with DL. the space heater must be UL or FM rated must have a trip over switch as well as a grill on the front on the heater. just use common sense and be carful when useing and electric heater. enjoy and happy camping. sorry about the other post some how i hit the send key
I have to agree with DL and Hollis ,, for one there is never been built a coach that u can make airtight ,, air is gonna get in somewhere ,, and myself as being an onsight and at shop rv repair center ,, i have done many shrink wrap window coverings and also sold many vent plugs ,,, the furnace will get air no matter what ,, if u look around the cover in the rear bedroom of a DP or even a gas unit u will find very little sealant ,, that makes for air entering the coach ,, also what about the stove vent ,, yes it has a flap that u close on the outside ,, but it is not air tight ,, and as long as the rv is being heated , there is little moisture to build up ,, the shower will cause some ,, but if u use the vent fan it will take it out.... i live in the south where our humidity is around 50% year round and above 90% in the summer ,, and I have not yet had a problem with even my coach ,, as far as mold I own a 40ft Alegro Bus ,,,
As Hollis said ,, and DL also ,,, do not use a non certified heater ,, if it don't have the shut off when it falls over ,,, DON'T BUY IT...
carlitguy - 12/27/2007 10:13 AM ... For your furnace to operate properly it needs a supply of air. This allows the air to not only circulate and achieve an optimum use of your furnaces. It will also reduce the pressure in the unit. Have at least two sources open such as a window cracked open as well as say a vent. Think of what happens if you blow air in to an enclosed space such as a balloon. RVGUY Dean IN Canada
Only bad advice I see is from RVguy but, I also notice that two weeks had expired between the original post and response to it and the diatribe that then follows. It probably don't much matter as Apadulo has probably either found a workable answer, or frozen to death!
now i got it ,, u turn on the furnace ,, then u spray around windows,, doors ,, and the roof ,, and prestoe ,, u find all u'r leaks ,,, man this guy is smart :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: yea right :laugh: :laugh: