Am I safe to assume that you are talking about an ice-maker that is in the refrigerator and not a stand alone one? I will base my answer on that belief.
Have you checked to see if the tray has ice in it? If it does not, then you probably are not getting water to the tray, but a very common cause of an ice-maker to quit is that the unit has frozen up and it needs to be defrosted. I suggest that you first check to see if there is ice in it, and if it may be perhaps, over full. If it is, defrost the refrigerator and use a towel or something cloth to soak up the water from the tray so that it will start out, empty. That is the reset condition of the ice-maker.
It you find that the tray is empty and has no water or ice in it, then it is time to check farther. The first thing is to consider why there is no water. I highly doubt that you have a broken water line because you would probably see water leaking out of the outside access panel Even so, remove the rear panel and look to see if there are any signs of water to indicate a leak. If not, next try to see why no water?
In most RV refrigerators the water line to the ice maker is directly inside the access panel and usually comes up through the floor of the space that the refrigerator occupies. Locate that water line and check to see if there is not a manual shut-off valve in it. Check and make sure that it is open. Assuming that it is, the next thing is to check for water flow. I would shut that valve and then trace the line to where it joins the solenoid controlled valve which supplies water to the ice maker. With the shut-off closed, disconnect the line from the inlet to the solenoid valve and point the line outside of the RV. Next open that shut-off which you closed before to see if water comes out of it. Most likely it will but if not you have found the problem.
If water does come thorough the supply line, the next step is to check the solenoid valve. The first thing is to lift the leads from the connections to that valve and use an ohm meter to see if the coil is good. If it is, there should be very low resistance through the coil, probably about 5 ohms or less. While you look at it, check to see what voltage the coil is. Most of them are 120V, but it could be 12V so make sure. Once you know, disconnect the water line from that valve to the freezer so that the outlet will be visible. With water supply connected and turned on, use jumpers to supply power to the solenoid for a few seconds to see if water comes out. If the valve is good, you will get water. You should also feel it snap open and usually you can hear it as well. The last thing to check is to try blowing air through the water line from the valve up to the ice tray.
Somewhere in this you should discover where the problem is.
If you will tell us what make and model of refrigerator and ice maker you have I'll look to my service manuals to see if I can give any further advice.
Hello Kirk, I have the same problem with my norcold 4 dr. I checked the selenoid as you suggested
When I put AC to the selenoid, the water for the icemaker began to fill the ice making tray.
Obviously, I must have an AC interuption.
I am a first time class a owner and quite frankly I'm bewildered with all the buttons fuses etc.
I found a fuse panel in the bedroom of my 07 cayman but none of those seem to be blown.
Is there anywhere else to look to maybe find the (no AC) problem.
I really appreciate your time to help me and all the other poor souls with problems out there in camping world
The first thing to do is to check to see if there is power to the 120V-AC outlet that your refrigerator plugs into, located in the rear of the refrigerator and accessed by removing the outside access panel. Inside of there you will find an outlet, much like those in your house at home and it will have one plug connected and that is from the refrigerator. You need to check that first, and of course you must be connected to shore power or have the genset running for it to have power. It is very normal for your ice maker to not work unless you have shore power.
Once you locate the outlet, if you have one, check it with a meter but if not just plug a lamp into it to see if it has power. If it does not, it will be a circuit breaker on the 120V distribution panel, and is highly unlikely to be a fuse as those are mostly for the 12V-DC equipment. All parts of your ice maker get power from the 120V outlet, as does the electric side of your refrigerator's cooling. All controls for an RV refrigerator are powered by 12V-DC power so you must have both available for the ice maker to operate.
If you have 120V to the outlet that you plug into, check to see if the refrigerator will cool on AC power. If it does, then you need to look to the connections for the ice maker. They are usually quite obvious and will tie into the same cord as does the power for the cooling. In mine the power cord went to a terminal block and there the cord connected to leads to the control circuit board of the refrigerator and a separate set of leads went to the ice maker. The controls of the ice maker are completely separate from those of the refrigerator as the ice maker is an add-on and the refrigerator can be purchased without it.
If your ice maker doesn't make ice you must first check the water supply line, then see if the fill tube is frozen. After that look inside the ice mold and then check the water line and tap valve. If you find any fault then consult a technician.
If your refrigerator is not making ice you need to check water fill tube and water inlet valve. If you think the water fill tube and inlet valve are okay still the ice maker is not making ice then you should call a technician to solve your problem.