First you level the trailer and measure the top of the trailer coupler. You then set the ball height as close as you can to that measurement. You have to set the angle of the head so when are finished the bars are parallel to the tounge of the trailer, after the weight is on them. That is trial and error, so almost plan on adjusting it a couple of times.
Your snap-ups should be located on the tounge so the chains hang straight. Count the number of links you have hanging loose and get that number in your mind. Next time you hook up, you just go to that link and go.
A hint: After you have it right, when you hook the trailer up crank the truck and trailer up with the jack. This will make it easier to hook the chains into the snap-ups.
I have a document I can send to you which will explain exactly how to set up your WD hitch. If you would like a copy, send me an e-mail and I will reply with the document attached. You can get my e-mail by clicking on my webpage link in signature below.
I was distracted by a customer. Yes, when you raise the jack foot the chains should tighten up and the truck and trailer should be level. Think of the bars as wheel barrow handles lifting the back of the truck.
Hi There... I have a question RE: weight distribution bars... i have a 1998 blazer 4 dr., 4WD and im towing a 2001 cabana 19' 3600 lbs. I was told by the dealer that I need these bars, however this is a dual axle trailer and I was also told by someone else, that I do not need these bars with 4 tires... Can anyone tell me which is correct? The hitch on the blazer is rated at 3,500lb tongue weight and 6,000lb weight distrubted. I think the dealer just wants to charge me $1,000 to put the kit on.
If I were towing your trailer with your vehicle, I would want the bars. A double axle trailer tows better, but 2 or 4 tires makes no difference as far as the bars go. What the bars correct is the tounge weight that is applied to the back of the vehicle, they level the rig.
DO NOT pay $1,000.00. Retail on Reese 600lb bars, Ball mount, and ball is a little over $400.00. A friction sway control is around 68.00. Can be installed in about an hour.
I think it all depends on the weight you are pulling. I had a Coleman trialer and the weight on that loaded was about what yours is. I was told that the only thing I needed was a sway control arm. My vehicle and trailer were pretty much even when I would hook it up. The sway arm did make a big differnce when I pulled it. So all in all, I don't think you need the bars, just a sway control arm.
Are you having alot of bounce when you are pulling? What about swaying?
AGAIN if I were towing a 3,600lb trailer with a 1998 Blazer, I would want the bars. A '98 Blazer is not the most stable vehicle in the first place. I had one, I know. When a trailer is added, all changes and safer is always better.
Having set up hundreds of hitches over the last 30 years, that is my opinion.