New '08 Starcraft Star Stream Hybrid - Now what do I need


New Member
My wife and I will be proud owners of a new hybrid TT this week, and we are new to the RV world. We are avid campers, but are not sure on the procedures or etiquette for campground activities. So if there are some late night insomniacs that don't mind answering a few questions, I will be posting many as I can never seem to sleep (especially now with the weather warming to campfire temperatures)

1. What is the best type/style of sewer hose? I have seen different connections, colors and features, what is really necessary?

2. I want to get a 30amp/15amp adapter cord, I have seen a cheap one at Wally World for $20 and some much nicer cam locking ones for about $60 on amazon and camping world, is the expensive one necessary or should I go cheap?

3. What kind of plates and bowls do you have in your campers, we were thinking Correlle, or maybe the hard plastic, my wife is a tree hugger of sorts and we don't want to use disposables.

4. Are there any good books or posts that outline what a first timers or a typical weekend would include as far as RV activities/maintenance?

5. Will the battery be enough to run the fridge to keep food cold while you are packing and traveling, and how long would it support?

6. My rig will have two of the big propane tanks 30#, if we are camping in the summer and not running the heat, is it necessary to fill both of them?

I am sure I will have more questions, after we pick up the trailer, but that is what I have for now, I appreciate any assistance I get. Thank you.


Senior Member
Re: New '08 Starcraft Star Stream Hybrid - Now what do I need

1. any 20 footer should do you just fine, I buy mine at wally world.
2. yes wally world one is fine I have been using mine for three or four years.
3. we started with the paper plate thing but now have corelle wear except we learned the hard way glass glasses dont work they break too easy. Going to buy four plastic ones soon.
4. try going to or CW to find the books that you might be interested in buying to assist you
5. I would plug mine into power at home, battery or gas on the road and power at the rv site or gas when camping without power
6. Cannot hurt to fill them both. Have one for a back up should something happen and you run out. I have a 24 gallon on my rv but carry a couple of 5 gallon besides for emergency.
Good luck and ask away I am sure others will answer you as well


Senior Member
Re: New '08 Starcraft Star Stream Hybrid - Now what do I need

1) There are a couple of good choices for sewer hoses. In my opinion, the best is the flat green hose from LevelUpp. Good luck finding those tho. In corrogated hoses, the Rhino hose with fittings is very durable, although sometimes the fittings unscrew a bit and leak (I keep meaning to seal them but haven't gotten around to it yet). I used to use 2 10' LevelUpp hoses and still carry them, but now mostly use the Rhino system. At home I use a whole bunch of the blue 'prestofit' system which is fairly decent, with the best universal angle fitting which screws into various dump sites. The main drawback of this system is that the bayonet fitting to attach to the RV is flimsy. I've never trusted it and aways use something else to connect to the RV. Prestofit's heavy duty hose is not bad and they have a new ultra heavy duty hose which looks promising. The red system is pretty good too, if you get the entire system from them. They are reverse threaded so you can't mix and match with other systems. I also carry a 12v macerater pump and some 3/4" hose for when I'm staying for a while. Whatever you use, make sure you have a small section of clear tube in the system so you can monitor the status of your dump. 2 10' sections or 15 to 20' of hose should usually be enough. I have 35' but only because I can't decide which system to go with.

So your system should consist of 1) a clear section (straight, 45 degree or 90 degree depending on the geometry of your dump port), 2) 15 to 20 feet of heavy duty or better hose, 3) a dump site 'universal' 90 degree angle to fasten to the dump site, 4) disposable gloves and/or hand disinfectant.

2) Cheap. The 'dogbone' ones at Camping World have worked just fine for me, under $15. If they ever give up the ghost, I'll pay a bit more for the new ones with handles to assist in getting them apart, but no way do you need to spend $60 for a little adapter. I would tend to avoid the ones which have one outlet right on the back of the plug (no wire between them). I'd also suggest a voltage/frequency/wiring check guage to test the outlet before plugging in. A problem with the outlet can damage your RV. Or you could get a SurgeGard if you are lazy with lots of money. By the way, you may also want a 50 amp to 30 amp converter. With the 2 converters, you can plug your 30 amp cord into either 50 amp, 30 amp or 15 amp. Being anal, I made a 30 to 20 amp converter, but I haven't yet needed it. The long (30') extention cord is a good thing to have, and I also carry 50' of true 15 amp extention cord.

3) We use real silverware (ok, stainless steel wear) because I hate the plastic ones. For cups and bowls, plastic. For plates, the disposable foam ones in a 'pop up' dispenser. Plastic plates would be fine if you don't like disposable. Basically, you want stuff which is light and not fragile.

5) It is unlikely that the battery will run the fridge when you don't have 120v. Unless you have what is called a '3 way' fridge, it will run off propane when not plugged in, although the fridge controller does need 12V to run. So it will run as long as you have propane and 12V available.

6) I'd fill them when 1 gets down about 1/2 way or before any major trip. Propane runs the fridge, the heater and the hot water, so you don't ever want to run out. It doesn't go bad and probably won't get any cheaper.

You didn't say anything about water so perhaps you are good in that area. But just in case, here are some suggestions for that. 1) Make sure your hose is 'drinking water certified', usually white in color. If it is not so certified, it has been made with harmful chemicals which will get into your water and taste bad and perhaps hurt you. 2) Never hook up without a good (i prefer the brass ones) water regulator. One time I didn't and blew the pressure sensor in the water pump and the feed line to the toilet. 3) Don't forget a pack of spare hose washers. 4) A water filter is good to keep sediment and some other stuff out of your water system. The one I use goes down to bacterial size. 5) Purify your water tank before use as specified in your users guide. 6) An assortment of 45 and 90 degree angles helps to hook up to some of the wierd water hookups out there. 7) The minimum amount of water hose you want is a 25' section. I find a 10' and a 4' also come in handy, and I also carry 50' of flat hose on a reel. 25' should be enough at most campgrounds, but you will often need much more at non-traditional sites like relatives houses (the 89' I carry was not enough at my dad's; had to buy another 25' section which I left there for next time). 8) Carry at least 1 CHEAP Y splitter so you can share a water connection. Cheap so you can leave it behind if you leave first (I've found them for less than $2). If not sharing, I still put it in my line so that I can release the pressure in the line before disconnecting. 9) I carry a cheap device called a 'water thief' in case I ever have to hook up to a faucet which does not have working threads. Basically a rubber cone which you force over the faucet. 10) getting water into your fresh water tank can be a challange in some RVs. Camping world has a special nozzle with shutoff valve which makes it easier.

Also, don't forget toilet paper. There is no need to spend big bucks for 'RV' toilet paper. Any cheap single ply which breaks down easily will work fine. There are a number of chemicals to put in the toilet; they work, but so does just using lots of water. To clean the tank, occasional use of Calgon water softener powder and soap (like Dove dishwashing liquid) sloshing around while you drive works well. Plus when you dump, you want to flush the tank. This requires a flush device which is either built into the tank, shoved down the toilet, or attached to the dump port. The first is the best, the second is very effective but very annoying to do and the last is a good middle choice. Do NOT use your drinking water hose to flush your sewage tank. Carry a section of different colored hose and a antifeedback device (again, brass is better than plastic).

Many campsites are not level, so you should carry something to level your RV. A stack of interlocking plastic blocks is fairly easy to use and are light. Basically, you build a 'hill' on the low side and pull the trailer wheels up onto it. If the hill is the right height, the trailer will be level side to side. I don't know how to level a TT front to back, but I bet the toungue jack is involved.


New Member
Re: New '08 Starcraft Star Stream Hybrid - Now what do I need

Thanks, the responses help out immensely. I was already researching the water lines and glad you brought them up. I was wondering about the flat hoses? I personally like good quality that doesn't kink or knot up, there was a good 50' on amazon for around $21. Which also brings up yet another question, 5/8" or 1/2" is there a standard or a difference?

Speaking of leveling blocks it made me think of chocks, will the $4 Wally World orange specials work well enough or should I go higher tech and get the one that compresses between the wheels?

I don't obviously want to spend a fortune, but I also hate buying junk and then rebuying it every year. All of your inputs are appreciated.


Senior Member
Re: New '08 Starcraft Star Stream Hybrid - Now what do I need

The flat hoses (at least the woven ones which are drinking water certified) are great for storing, but don't hold up under long term use. Eventually, they start leaking along the seams. That's why I use the 50' one which is carried much and used little. Other flat hoses might be more durable, but make sure they are drinking water certified. Also, 50' will be pretty inconveniant at most camp grounds where 10' will often do. As for 5/8 or 1/2, get whatever is available, since a good system will have a pressure regulator and filter so the flow difference doesn't make significant difference.

Wedge chocks work just fine for wheels which are on the ground. Not so well for the wheels which are up on blocks. When I had a trailer, I used the between the wheel chock between the wheels on the leveler and a wedge chock (dual) between the wheels on the ground. The wedges I used were steel with thumb screw between them and went between the wheels, but individual ones should work adequately for less money.