refridgerator cooling

[M Wentworth]

I just installed a new dometic fridge and ran it for about 8hrs. to test it. The freezer cooled down to 25 but the fridge was only about 62(started at 71). Is this normal or do I have a problem? The unit was level and the doors were tight. :question:

 

[Johnny-O]

refridgerator cooling

You don't give much info. First of all is this a replacement of the same model?
If not, you may have to do a little modification to the refer cabnet to get proper venting. Where is the t-stat set to? Are you using gas or electric? But in answer to your question, no, these temps are much to high. You may not have a problem, but we don't have much info to go on. LOL
The Boz

 

[Ed H.]

refridgerator cooling

The Boz is right about making sure you have adequate ventilation. Poor air circulation around the condensor will result in poor cooling and will shorten the life of the cooling unit by a huge factor.
If the unit has been sitting for any length of time, you really need to give it 24 hours before checking the temperature. These things are notoriously slow to cool down when you first start them up.
If you had it on electric, what is the voltage? A few volts low can make a significant differance.
What is the ambient (surrounding air) temperature? This can be a big factor. I had an old unit that was good for 40 degrees cooler than ambient and that was it. At 70, I could freeze stuff, at 80, just nice at 40 inside, but on a 95 degree day, I would have been better off with an ice chest.
Just to check the door gaskets, take a dollar bill and sht it in the door. You should be able to pull it out with just a bit of effort. Do this in several places around the door. It should be consistant. If it practically falls out, the gasket is too loose, if you really have to yank on it, the gasket is pinching and may be opening a gap elsewhere.
hope this helps,
Ed

 

[Denver Lee]

refridgerator cooling

I had the same problem with a new unit and refrigerator.1. There should be no more than 1" clearance between the back of the ref (the condensor and the absorber tubes) and the outside wall of the RV. If this area exceeds 1" then a baffel should be added. 2. If the bottom vent and the top vent is on the side of the RV, I would put in a roof vent if possible and close the top wall vent.3. You can install a fan to move air form the bottom vent over the coils and out the top vent. Yoy can buy a fan that comes with a thermostate which attaches to the absorber tubes and it works automatically.The fan can be installed near the bottom vent to push air up through or near the top vent to "suck" air up through.