Re: TTs and something to pull them.
The manufacturer's site ought to have the GVWR, which is the maximum the trailer can weigh. It is the safest value to use when matching a trailer and a tow vehicle.
There are 2 types of trailers, 'Travel Trailers' (TT) and 'Fifth Wheels' (5ver). The TT is usually lower and the floor plan is all on one level. They are less stable to tow and harder to hook up. The 5ver usually is higher (with corresponding higher headroom and wind resistance), with more storage, and are much easier to tow and hook up. The front part of the floor plan is up a steep flite of stairs and often has low headroom. The major problem with any trailer is 'leveling' it side to side. This involves having a hump of something (pieces of wood or plastic blocks) and driving the tires on one side of the trailer up onto the hump. If you have a power jack (TT) or power landing legs (5ver), leveling front to back is not too bad.
The TT can be towed by any vehicle with an appropriate hitch and which is rated to tow the trailer weight. The 5ver can only be towed by a pickup truck with a 5th wheel hitch in the bed (which greatly reduces what you can carry in the bed). Long bed trucks are better; short bed trucks can be used with appropriate hitch (sliding) and/or extended King pin to prevent the trailer 'kissing' the cab during a tight turn.
To overcome the more problematic towing capabilities of the TT, you will need an anti-sway hitch, possibly with weight distribution. There are also some very expensive hitches which overcome most of the limitations of TT towing without these 'gadgets'.
The trailer should have its own brakes, powered by the internal battery. So you will need a brake controller in the tow vehicle.
Once you know the weight of a possible trailer, you can look for the appropriate vehicle to tow it. The most important criteria is the 'towing capacity'. But take this value with several grains of salt. This rating is with no accessories installed in the vehicle, no passengers, no cargo. Just a 150 pound driver and a bit of gas. Also, the rating is for a flat bed trailer with 'no' wind resistance.
To find the weight of the trailer, check with the manufacturer. You will need the GVWR and the 'pin weight'. The dry weight is only of use in figuring out your cargo carrying capacity, and should not be relied on unless you are getting the trailer directly from the manufacturer, since it does not include any changes made by previous owners or dealers.
From the tow vehicle manufacturer, you can find the towing capacity (subject to the limitations mentioned above) and the GAWR for the rear axel, to insure that the pin weight of the trailer does not cause you to exceed this maximum rear axel weight. In short, you need to be concerned that you stay under the GVWR of the truck, the GVWR of the trailer, the towing weight of the hitch, the pin weight of the hitch, the GAWR of the front and rear axels of the tow vehicle and the GCWR of the truck (the maximum of the truck and anything it is pulling.
Math is good, but the only way to make sure that you are under all these values is to visit a scale before you hit the road.