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- Thread starter johnnyP
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Thanks Bush70-----found lots of info but nothing quite like the problem I am seeing (at least, now I know how to access past posts!)
Kirk, I have a Norcold model 9162 (separate doors for freezer and frige). Made in 1998 for a 1999 Dutchmen trailer.
The complete frige has failed (no cooling) three times in the past two months. Every time I have managed to re-start the thing by turning it off for about 24 hours (very inconvenient--my beer gets warm!!) and then turning it on again. This works every time but in the mean time we have to empty the frige and freezer and rely on our neighbours to help re frige/freezer space (my wife has made threatening statements about getting a new frige which will cost about $1500).
I am a neophite when it comes to RVing (only 4 years, but learning fast with the help of friends and this website). But, I have established that the electric (110V) and gas heat sources work (can feel the heat), there is NO ammonia smell and when the beast starts up again, it works fine--lots of cooling on 110V. I have replaced the thermister (in the frige section) but that didn't solve the problem.
Has anyone ever heard of anything like this??
HELP!!! $1500 looms!!
johnnyP
Thanks Bush70-----found lots of info but nothing quite like the problem I am seeing (at least, now I know how to access past posts!)
Kirk, I have a Norcold model 9162 (separate doors for freezer and frige). Made in 1998 for a 1999 Dutchmen trailer.
The complete frige has failed (no cooling) three times in the past two months. Every time I have managed to re-start the thing by turning it off for about 24 hours (very inconvenient--my beer gets warm!!) and then turning it on again. This works every time but in the mean time we have to empty the frige and freezer and rely on our neighbours to help re frige/freezer space (my wife has made threatening statements about getting a new frige which will cost about $1500).
I am a neophite when it comes to RVing (only 4 years, but learning fast with the help of friends and this website). But, I have established that the electric (110V) and gas heat sources work (can feel the heat), there is NO ammonia smell and when the beast starts up again, it works fine--lots of cooling on 110V. I have replaced the thermister (in the frige section) but that didn't solve the problem.
Has anyone ever heard of anything like this??
HELP!!! $1500 looms!!
johnnyP
Viewing past posts
Sounds like possibly the humidity/defrost switch. Go to www.rvmobile.com for expert diagnosis. Good luck!
Sounds like possibly the humidity/defrost switch. Go to www.rvmobile.com for expert diagnosis. Good luck!
Viewing past posts
If I understand you correct it does not work on gas or electric. If this is so the most common problen is the control it self. It is on the back of the frige and cost around $100. If it works on electric and not gas it could still be the control but it might be the thermal coupler. That is alot cheaper. Good Luck
If I understand you correct it does not work on gas or electric. If this is so the most common problen is the control it self. It is on the back of the frige and cost around $100. If it works on electric and not gas it could still be the control but it might be the thermal coupler. That is alot cheaper. Good Luck
Viewing past posts
Thanks for your help.
When the frige/freezer is working, it works on either 110V or gas. When it isn't working, it will not work on either 110V or gas.
There is a new piece to the puzzle: At least two of the three times that the unit stopped working there was a 110 power interuption just before the unit stopped working (one was a supply blackout for about a second and the other was due to us tripping a circuit breaker). My 12 V battery is just about dead and someone has suggested that this combination is tripping the unit off when the 110V interupts. Does this sound like a possibility? (the converter does work OK).
Thanks,
johnnyP
Thanks for your help.
When the frige/freezer is working, it works on either 110V or gas. When it isn't working, it will not work on either 110V or gas.
There is a new piece to the puzzle: At least two of the three times that the unit stopped working there was a 110 power interuption just before the unit stopped working (one was a supply blackout for about a second and the other was due to us tripping a circuit breaker). My 12 V battery is just about dead and someone has suggested that this combination is tripping the unit off when the 110V interupts. Does this sound like a possibility? (the converter does work OK).
Thanks,
johnnyP