Full timing at a campsite

Discussion in 'Full Timing' started by sharp, Mar 19, 2009.

  1. sharp

    sharp New Member

    We just bought our 5th wheel, its a 36 foot mountaineer. We are planning to live in it full time at a full hook up campsite for about 6-7 months. I was just wondering what kinds of things I need to do as far as water and sewer go? like chemicals or anything like that to keep the water from going bad? Is there any other general things I should know about fulltiming at the same place for extended periods of time? I'm also not sure if I need 30 or 50 amp service, the campsite says i should use their 50 amp (of course it costs more a month). The trailer has a washer/dryer and one A/C, would 30 amp be enough? If anyone has any other advice, I would sure appreciate it. I'm sure I'll have more questions once we actually move in. Thanks.
     
  2. Guest

    Guest Guest

    RE: Full timing at a campsite

    well ,, dane ,, first off ,, what type of plug do u have ,, is it 3 connectors ,, or 4 ,, that will tell us 30 amp from 50 amp ,, and as far as the sewer ,, keep it closed ,, what i mean is ,, keep the valve closed to the park connection ,,, and only dump the tanks when they are 2/3 full ,,, but u'r gray tank ,,, that is the one that the sink,shower drain into ,, and also the clothes washer will fill up faster ,,, but ,, dump u'r black tank first ,,, then the gray ,,, as far as the water goes ,,, make sure u have a regulator on the site hookup ,,, and no chems needed for site water ,, but u need to treat u'r black tank ,, before and after u dump it ,, other wise u end up with a smelly rv ,,, post away on anymore ques. u night have ,, i know i have tried to help some ,,, others will also ,, be patient ,, and all will be ok :approve: :approve: :approve: :) :cool:
     
  3. sharp

    sharp New Member

    RE: Full timing at a campsite

    Thanks for the reply. It has a 50 amp plug (came with 15 and 30 amp adapters aswell). What do you use to treat the black water tank?
    thanks again.
     
  4. Guest

    Guest Guest

    RE: Full timing at a campsite

    i would use any product that is available at any rv store ,, it is just for the black tank ,,, and also watch what TP paper u use ,,, but don't go and buy that high priced rv only stuff ,, use one ply TP paper ,,, u can get it at any place that carries Tp paper ,, but on the black tank ,, besure to use tons of water in it ,, water is better ,, and more water is even better ,,, what i mean is it helps to keep everything in a almost liquid state ,, and it helps when dumping ,, but also ,, since u are staying in it for a few months ,,, also get a type of cleaning wand ,, or a sewer hose adapt ,,, that way u can clean the black tank regularly ,, it needs to be cleaned ,, other wise ,, with out water and cleaning ,, u end up with a poop tee pee ,, and u for sure don't want that :approve: :approve: ;) :)
    oops forgot ,, if u'r plug is 50 amp ,, then i would have to say ,, u'r gonna have to pay for the 50 amp service ,,, i know it's a bad thing to say ,, but u don't want to go backward ,, use what u'r rv came with ,, u and it will be much happier :approve: :approve:
    One other thing ,, i have seen many of stuff fried in an rv thru the yr's ,, due to people ,, using a less amp ,, than came with there unit ,, IMO don't do it ,,unless u have no choice ,, then be carefull of what u use :approve: :)
     
  5. rjf7g

    rjf7g Senior Member

    Re: Full timing at a campsite

    Sharp-
    Welcome to the forum. I have a park trailer on a permanent site. I typically use it on the weekends and then go home (where my job is) during the week. So, I treat the black tank with a Thetford brand chemical I buy at Wal-Mart. I prefer the packs that you don't have to open or the liquid to the cut open and pour packs. I am sure that stuff is not good on the lungs! I tried the "all natural" stuff and did not like it. On the otherhand, I don't have to do any chemicals in the tank on my class C. I have no idea what the difference is, but I wouldn't assume you have to use chemicals - you will know soon enough if you need to. Flush with plenty of water and let your tanks get 3/4 full before you dump them. Use only 1-ply toilet paper as Rod suggests. I do buy the RV TP at Wal-Mart because it is actually cheaper than the 1-ply Scott and feels better!

    30A will demand that you not run the AC and the microwave at the same time if you have other things that pull current. I typically have a radio, TV, and 2-4 laptops plugged in along with my residential fridge and I can't do the AC and microwave at the same time.

    Hope this helps! ;)
     
  6. sharp

    sharp New Member

    Re: Full timing at a campsite

    Thanks alot for the help guys :)
     
  7. sharp

    sharp New Member

    Re: Full timing at a campsite

    A coule other things I was wondering about. Surge protectors? are they neccesary and worth the money? Its seems a 50 amp one is pretty damn expensive. I was also wondering how cold can it get before you have to worry about draining ur lines and hotwater heater, sometimes at night during the spring or fall it can get a little chilly, and also what kind of heaters do you use when ur at a campsite? theres not much sense running ur propane furnace when ur paying for electricity.
    thanks everyone.
     
  8. utmtman

    utmtman Senior Member

    Re: Full timing at a campsite

    Well if you are living in your rv and it gets cold you dont need to bother draining them. I live in mine and its now 27 outside with 13 overnight last night and I left my hose hooked up with heattape around the hose with hose insulation and also left a dribble of water running all night and it is still running. I do that until temp gets above 34. We even got some three or four inches of snow overnight. Oh what fun. LOL ok about surge protectors. I was in a park in louisiana a year ago that had a storm come over with lightining that knocked out a transformer on a pole in the park. I was the only rv that did not recieve some kind of damage and or at least did not pop all my fuses like a of other rvs did. I bless the day I bought my surge protector and I also bought the kind that was installed inline. This winter I bought an autoformer after replacing two hot water heater boards due to bad power at the site I was in. I learn something new every year. This is my third year of fulltime rving. Also earlier this month I threw away the walmart water pressure adapter and bought an in line water pressure device that is adjustable. Cannot believe the difference that has made on our water pressure. I was on my third walmart and camping world adapter before this.
     
  9. Kirk

    Kirk Senior Member

    Re: Full timing at a campsite

    We, and most fulltimers that I know, do not use chemicals at all in our waste water tanks. As long as you use septic friendly TP and are generous with the water each flush, there is really no need to use one, unless you want to spend more money. Just be very generous with the use of water and never dump the tanks until they are at least 1/2 full. We have been doing this now for the past six years of fulltime RV living and we usually sit in one place for three to four months and then move.

    On the surge protectors, if all that you get is just a surge protector then it really isn't too expensive but if you use a line monitor such as Surge Guard or the one from Progressive Ind. then they will run around $400 but it could prove well worth it over time. I use mine religiously.
     
  10. sharp

    sharp New Member

    Re: Full timing at a campsite

    Thanks alot for the advice guys. And Kirk, your website is really good, very informative, I learn alot reading it. I hope you keep it going.
    Thanks again.
     
  11. sharp

    sharp New Member

    Re: Full timing at a campsite

    double post, sorry
     
  12. brodavid

    brodavid Senior Member

    Re: Full timing at a campsite

    surge protectors are worth the money
     
  13. RVDigitalBoy

    RVDigitalBoy New Member

    Re: Full timing at a campsite

    I know I'm late to this party and I may repeat some of the advice given above but . . . here goes anyway.

    I have a 50 amp coach (diesel pusher motorhome). I pay for 50 amp power whenever it is available. With 50 amp service you can run the washer and dryer (if separates like ours) at the same time along with the TVs and refrigerator (which defaults to electric when it is available). We've even left the electric water heater on at the same time. However, If we want to make coffee or use the convection microwave at the same time as both washer and dryer are going, then I turn the water heater to gas.

    In 2007 while working at a campground in NY we only had 30 amps. That meant only one a/c running at a time and either the washer or dryer but not both. On 30 amps you have to learn how to manage your amperage.

    With regard to sewer connections I have always kept the black tank valve closed and the gray tank valve open. Even though we have a 55 gallon gray tank we also like to take showers, do laundry and even run the dishwasher I had installed in place of the oven. Believe me, when the gray tank starts backing up through the shower you'll always keep the gray tank open.

    In the past I used Thetford and other chemicals. But, I learned that they just disguised the odor - for a while. Now I use Ridix (or is it Ridex?) about 1/4 cup per tank full. We also use septic safe Scott single ply toilet paper.

    If your campground provides "city" or well water, then your water tank will go unused. When the water tank has not been used for a few months we will shut off the city water and do a load of laundry or two to use the tank water. I will then drain the rest of the tank and replace it (usually about 1/4 tank) with campground water. In 10 years of camping we've never had a water problem.

    I hope this helps!
     
  14. onthecoach

    onthecoach Senior Member

    Re: Full timing at a campsite

    I know I am really BEHIND the ball on this one, but I have to add my 2-cents on the surge protector question: When we plugged into the electric outlet at a campground where Dh and I were staying in NJ...there was a glitch or short or surge or SOMETHING that knocked out ALL the electric in our coach!!!! We had to have new everything installed, including AC!!! Since that time, I have secured power surge protectors for both 50AMP and 30AMP plugs. cost for the 2 was about $100.00 --- cost for repairs: $6000+ (thank Goodness for extended warranties!!) The first thing I would advise ANYONE and EVERYONE to spend money on would be SURGE PROTECTORS!!!!
     

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