Questions

Discussion in 'Talkback' started by Micah, Jun 22, 2006.

  1. Micah

    Micah New Member

    Hi , I'm wondering what you guys think. First we took the new trailer out a couple of weeks ago for a few days and all went well, and we discovered some things we needed, and things to do otherwise.
    The trailer is a Salem 20'. Yesterday I was washing it and read the info on the tires. They say Max PSI is not over 35#, the plate on the trailer says 55# ????
    What do you think about repacking the wheel bearing, it's a new unit and we have only put 250-300 mi. on it, but are going in 3 weeks for a month, and probably 2-3000 mi trip. When you repack the bearings do you replace the seals?
    When changing a tire the jack goes under the axle, right?
    This is my first experience with trailers of any kind, and I am a carpenter not a Mechanic.
    I'd appreciate the input, and thanks for your time.
    Jerry
     
  2. bmwbob

    bmwbob New Member

    RE: Questions

    Jerry,
    I'm not a "tire guy", but I'm wondering if you have the correct tires on your trailer.
    My experience with motorcycles, cars, and other trailers is that you never exceed the rated inflation pressure as stated on the sidewall of the tire.
    Assuming that your trailer has some sort of suspension, ie; leaf springs, torsion axle, the type of suspension will dictate where the jack must go.
    To decide where to put it, picture this: if you put your jack to the frame, as the trailer goes up, you are just unloading it's weight from the suspension, and the tire and wheel will remain on the ground until you have the trailer high enough to exceed the suspension travel range.
    With leaf springs, the jack under the axle will work.
    For a torsion bar type suspension, or "rubber axle damper", it might need to go under the arm coming back from the axle to which the wheel spindle is attached.
    Armed with this info, take a look at your trailer's suspension, and it should become obvious as to where the jack needs to be to actually lift the wheel itself, and not just the trailer body.
    For wheel bearings, I always install a product called Bearing Buddies in place of the dust cover over the bearing. It has a Zerk/alemite normal grease gun fitting, and an internal diaphragm and spring. Once loaded with grease, it maintains a positive pressure, pushing the reserve grease into the bearings, and bearing outward against the seals, preventing water from entering.
    These are pretty much standard on most good boat trailers, and a real-life bearing saver.
    No, I don't sell them, nor do I work for the company. Just a good report on a product that actually does what it claims to do!
    Bob
     
  3. Grandview Trailer Sa

    Grandview Trailer Sa Senior Member

    Re: Questions

    Bob is correct, use what tire pressure is embosseed in the tire. To find out if the correct tires have been used, take the load rating of a tire, multiply x 4 and see if that amount exceeds the weight of your trailer. Most likely, they put the wrong decal on, but Forest River is notorious for using just enough axle and tires for the weight of the trailer.
    Jack goes under axle.
    I have a different opinion on bearing buddies. They are great on boat trailers. They go in and out of water a lot and the buddies help in that situation to keep water out. That is what they were designed for. IF you have too much grease and build up pressure on the seals, they will blow and ruin the brakes shoes and drums. Some folks fill up the hub and grease expands when it heats up. That is when the seal will blow and you have an expensive repair. Your bearings should be good for 20-25,000 miles. Being new it would be good to pop the dust cover off and visually see grease in the outer bearing. It does not have to be packed solid. I am certainly not saying to avoid maintaince, but over the years I have seen lots of mistakes made concerning bearings.
     
  4. bmwbob

    bmwbob New Member

    Re: Questions

    The later model Bearing Buddies I've installed have a built-in overpressure relief system. If you try to overfill the hub, or the grease expands from heating, the excess will ooze out around the sides of the plate that the grease fitting is on, on the outside of the Bearing Buddy, which is normally covered by a rubber boot.
    This may not always have been the case, however, and there is at least one other brand of a similar product out there that does not incorporate this feature.
    Bob
     
  5. Micah

    Micah New Member

    RE: Questions

    Thanks for the info guys. I'll check out the tire thing soon as I get a chance and let you know.We're having unexpected company tonite , so the puter will be off limits till tomorrow sometime. I'll let you know later. Jerry
     
  6. ARCHER

    ARCHER Senior Member

    RE: Questions

    I use the bearing buddies on my boat trailer, but it does not have brakes (just a 16ft V-Hull). I know that the older buddies will flow out, if filled too full, by experience. The first trip I went on that was long, I overfilled with grease and it actually blew the buddy bearing off and I lost all the grease. Had to use duct tape to cover until I got to where I could buy anther cover. Thank goodness for duct tape, :laugh:
     
  7. bmwbob

    bmwbob New Member

    Re: Questions

    Great inventions of modern time:
    1. Duct tape
    2. Ty-wraps
    3. Velcro
    4. Super glue
    And a list of others, without which mankind would have most certainly returned to the caves! :)
    Bob
     
  8. hertig

    hertig Senior Member

    Re: Questions

    Don't forget lawyers, who are leading us back towards the caves :)
     
  9. Micah

    Micah New Member

    RE: Questions

    I finally got a chance to look at the tires again today. What I have been trying to read is on the lower side of the tire, therefore upside down, all 4 tires. A real good trick with trifocals. Yesterday it came to me, look on the spare. The 32 # PSI refers to mounting the tire. In another place it says, Max load 1760# at 50# PSI. I should have thought to look on the spare sooner.
    Thanks for the other info, I thought I had the jack thing right. A friend told me to repack the bearing, but it didn't realy make sense to me, and I've known him to talk just to sound important. He's not a lawyer but should have been he's good at blowing smoke.
    Thanks again, Jerry
     
  10. Toni

    Toni New Member

    Re: Questions

    I am new but I have aquestion. I only have heat that runs off of propane. Can I add something so I can use heat from electric
     
  11. Texas_Camper

    Texas_Camper New Member

    Re: Questions

    Toni
    If you boondock, you are stuck with the propane furnace. Some use a Buddy Heater, but I'd be afraid to use one in a closed trailer. If you're in a campground and have electricity, then you can use a ceramic heater (electric) to greatly supplement your furnace. Keeps the trailer warm, saves your propane. The cost of electricity is usually included in the site fee.
    Depending on the circuits in the trailer, you may be able to use 2 ceramic heaters at the same time. Get the ones with the automatic cut-off when tipped over.
     
  12. Cord

    Cord New Member

    Re: Questions

    I would like to ask a question about exceeding my tounge weight on my rv. I have a strong desire to tow a scooter using my hitch with a "bike carrier." After purchasing the scooter which weighs around 400 pounds, I noticed that the maximum "tounge weight is only 350 pounds accordingg to a decal on my bumper. I noticed that the hitch itself is rated for 500 pounds which I will be close to when I add the carrier with the scooter. what are the dangers of overloading the tounge weight. :question:
     
  13. C Nash

    C Nash Senior Member

    Re: Questions

    Cord, you may get more answers by posting under a new topic. I would be concerned abot how it will affect handling.
     

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