Allison problems

OK good! While you're checking the trimmer valves, also take a look at the trimmer regulator. also take a look at the trim boost accumulator if it has one.
Re: Allison problems

I have a 1993 American Eagle with MD3060 transmission and have the exact same problem. I worked on it all day yesterday trying to trace out wiring, etc. If I knew where any of this equipment (ECU, TCM, etc) was located, it would make things easier. I have all of the manuals and books and none show where the ECU is at and I'm not even sure what a TCM is. Having been an electrician by trade, I believe there is a loose ground somewhere. When I turn the key on, the shifter will flicker a little and then go out with no display except the "Do NOT Shift" light is on. If I wait and come back in ten minutes, the shifter will light up with an "N" for about 3 seconds and then go out again. After about three hours of looking at connections, etc., I turned the key and all was normal. Then I put it into Reverse and the shifter went blank and the "Do NOT Shift" light came on. Of course, did shift it back to Neutral and turned everything off. I went back 30 minutes later and it all worked again. This time it even shifted without going out and I managed to back it out and get it turned around and parked where it has an electrical source to plug into. Everything worked perfectly for many more attempts and I quit for the night thinking it might have been a ghost or something! Went out this morning and it worked great and I got it started and the air pressure built up. Just as the air pressure turned the buzzers off, the shifter started to flicker a little and then went off and on and the OFF! There are no diagnostic buttons on my shifter to even get a code and if there was a code, I wouldn't see it because the shifter is blank and appears to have no power. The nearest RV shop is over 50 miles from me and I am on a fixed income with very little cash on hand. Does anyone have a 1993 American Eagle, Cummins engine, Allison transmission, that knows the location of the ECU, etc.? I sent Spartan (the Chassis Manufacturer) an e-mail with the chassis model & serial number and ten minutes later, they sent me the wiring schematic of my motorhome. Now that's service! Unfortunately, it ends in with an arrow that says "ECU" that direction. I guess the chassis maker didn't wire the transmission.
I have a 1993 Pace Arrow 250hp diesel with MD3060 transmission and have almost the same problem. Has anyone had the same issues and if so, what was the fix? Any help with this problem would be appreciated. Thanks
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I have a 1993 Pace Arrow 250hp diesel with MD3060 transmission and have almost the same problem. Has anyone had the same issues and if so, what was the fix? Any help with this problem would be appreciated. Thanks
After reading about several people having this same issue, I was fairly sure the trouble was in my ECU. It turned out that was correct. I sent the ECU to Transmission Instruments in Flower Mound Texas 1-866-439-9779 and had the ECU repaired. They did a great job by the way. I got the unit back, installed it and yea! fixed! Thanks David V
I recently brought a 1994 diesel pusher (1994 contentinal 3.8 with push button allison tranny). We went to the lake and the next morning the do not shift light was on and it would not go into gear. Finally was able to hit the drive the same time as the engine started and got it home. I went out several times and started it and it worked fine then the next time the do not shift came on the display on the push button panel flickered a little. I took the unit out and had it checked out and was told it was fine but there was a code for a power interuption. Put it back in and it worked great. I went out and drove it around yesterday all was well. Went out this morning and it is dead there is no power to the push buttons not a fliker. Sometimes in starting the engine I can turn the key but it does nothing. If I do it several times it starts. My senses tell me its a relay or something.

Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
I agree with the first reply you got. Low Power to the TCM will give you this exact problem. After 2200 miles of intermittent similar problems, two towing jobs and Two service calls, Technician found low voltage on the IGNITION ON line. could not find the point of loss so he wired around it and Waa Laa, next 35000 miles were trouble-free (from this problem).
I own a 1999 Beaver Monterrey, 30' powered by a Cat 300 paired to an Allison MD3060 6spd transmission. I want to help others who run into an issue where the shift selector shows an error condition, or nothing at all. This tends to happen after swapping out chassis batteries and is almost always due to either reconnecting three wires in the battery box incorrectly or a bad ground.

Always take a photo of the wiring before disconnecting anything (ask me how I know). In particular look at the 10 gauge wires connected to positive and ground and make certain that you reconnect them properly. In the harness in my coach they are the same color, so no indicator of which is positive and ground.

Next look at the condition of the connectors, clean them up, possibly replace them if the wire is breaking down at the connector or other corrosion exists. If you havce a flakey connection, it WILL lead to problems!

That all being good, also check for the VIM and ECU power fuses which are also likely in the battery box. If these also check out, then find the location for the ECU and VIM. In my coach they are located in behind an outside door, driver side, front along with terminal blocks for a lot of the coach wiring. There are two fuses in the VIM, check those out as well and make sure they have power.

OK now that you have all this confirmed or fixed, and no change at the shift selector, you might wonder if the ecu is bad, and what your options are. I strongly recommend that your next step is to go to the Transmission Instruments webpage I am linking here and carefully follow the troubleshooting steps on the page:

I found this site and thought that even after using the guide that my ecu might be bad. Being stuck outside Ft. Worth, Texas on a road trip, I was willing to do just about anything to get my coach running again. I called the company, reaching the owner:

John Kopalek
Transmission Instruments

It turns out that he was physically located about 45 minutes from where I had my RV towed. We agreed that I could bring my ecu to him to test out. John has created the test equipment to quickly determine if the ecu is good or bad, as well as the shift selector. Within minutes, John convinced me that the ecu was good, then spent about 45 minutes teaching me about the interfaces (three harnesses connect to the ecu) and how to test the pinouts on them to find the problem. This info is laid out in the link above, read it!

John also had a WTech III shift selector in inventory, so I bought it from him to assure I had a good one at hand. Armed with the knowledge of how to test the system, and one good part under my arm, I headed back to the shop that had my coach. The shop owner was very gratefull to work with me on the problem, given there is no schematic online that (nor was there one in my manuals) helped us isolate the problem of no display on the shift selector (and therefore, no start from the ignition switch at the driver seat.

Knowing that the ecu was good, we focused on the pinouts of the harness that supplies power to the ecu. This power comes from the chassis batteries, is not switched, so take care with your testing. We found that there was power where we expected grounds on two of the pins, which sent us back to the battery box. It turned out that one of the 10 gauge wires had "shortened" by falling back, through a hole in between the battery box aqnd the engine compartment, making it appear that it only fit on the positive terminal of the back battery. After tracing it into the engine compartment, and finding extra length there, we pulled it back into the box, and reconnected to the negative terminal, along with the other 10 gauge ground hooked up there. Now we had ground on the pins as expected. I had that wrong! (always take photographs of the wiring before disconnecting chassis batteries).

But, we still had no display on the shift selector. With everything checking out to the ecu and the VIM, it was time to look at the ecu outputs. They looked good as well, so we decided to assure we had a good ground between the ecu output and the selector. We hacked the harness at the ecu out connector and moved the ground wire with an extension to ground at the terminal block adjacent. Turned the key on, and everything lit up, the engine started and shifting was enabled.

The key here, and this not just from my personal experience, but from John at Transmission Instruments, is that you MUST have a solid ground and that this is #1 problem most of the time. Whether from rodents, from a corroded connection, or because you are a bit of a knucklehead like me and do not photograph the battery connections before swapping batteries, a bad ground in the ecu circuit will cause failure.

After we fixed the two issues I had of an incorrect connection AND a bad ground somewhere in the harness, I took the now-unneeded spare shift selector I had purchased from John and put it in the mail back to him, expecting a core charge refund. John is a saint. Not only does he test the ecus for free, he refunded my entire cost of the shift selector! He wound up charging me nothing for his expertise. I strongly recommend that you use John if you ever have suspected ecu issues.
I have 2000 fleetwood discovery transmission problems.
check trans light on dash.
no crank , and no shift pad selector light
happened after changing the starter batteries.
I have 5 volts at shift pad..
I have 2000 fleetwood discovery transmission problems.
check trans light on dash.
no crank , and no shift pad selector light
happened after changing the starter batteries.
I have 5 volts at shift pad..
This is almost always due to miswiring the required voltage and ground in the battery box back onto the starter batteries. These connections are required to assure that the controller has an uninterrupted current supply, whether the alternator is working or not. The symptom you describe is identical to that I recently had to troubleshoot using this guide:

I was convinced that I had everything correct, but ultimately found that I did not have a solid ground connection for the ECU power off the starter batteries. After I moved past my denial phase, it became a simple problem to troubleshoot and overcome. Happy hunting!