Hi LT, Yes, and it is anodized alum. so it never was shiney like the Airstreams were, you can buff them to a high shine, but that will remove the anodize protection and it will dull & corrode, unless you keep polishing. :laugh:
OK. I probalby made big mistake, but I bought the silver beast. Of course, now reality has set in. My vision is always better after I buy something than before.
Anyway, I mentioned earlier that the bathroom floor is mooshy. I think I want to tackle that. How hard of a job is it? What unpleasant surprises am I in for? Is removing the toilet difficult?
Also, I mentioned the upper corner of the bathroom door had what appeared to be water damage. With the door swung open to where it would normally rest, it is right under the ceiling vent. I have a feeling that is where the water came from that got the door and probably the floor. Although, the previous owner claimned the floor damage wasd from a toilet that leaked.
I also found some water damage under a couple of the windows. Probably need to seal the window frames and the main seam joining "upper" and "lower" half of the "fuselage"?
HI LT, congrags on the new rig, don't feel bad about the hind sight it happens to me all the time also. Removing the toilet is fairly easy disconnect the water line and there should be two bolts that hold it to the flange, (that is if its a thetford toilet, if its a sealand Iam not sure as I've only removed broken parts of one of those). Sounds like you have some work ahead but it can be very rewarding to restore a unit, knowing you did it. Good luck and keep us posted as to how its coming. :laugh: :bleh: :approve:
The toilet is easy like Gary said. I've R & R two of them.
Get up on the roof by that leaky skylight and clean as much as the goop off as you can. The silver stuff comes up with paint thinner. Let it soak for a bit and run a scraper over it. The RV place will have the Plastic Coat with fiber so you can go over everything once it is clean.(See pictures of the prowler roof I just finished. The link is still posted above.)There also may be a leak in the vent itself.
The floor is kind of a pain because you will probably have to replace the studs by sistering them to whatever studs are not dry rotted. (see shasta pix) I used pressure treated lumber and plywood. Then you need to bolt them to the frame. It is easier to do this with 2 people. 1 under the camper drilling up through existing holes in frame and the other feeding carrige bolts back through the new wood frame and the under guy putting on washers, nuts, and tightening. Be careful not to walk on the metal sheathing once plywood is removed cause it is thin and won't hold any weight plus it keeps the critters out so you want it in tact.
I still have leaking issues in the front corners of the prowler. I've replaced the corner studs and some of the paneling. I used white tile board from home depot, it's about $10 a 4X8 sheet. I put a stream of water by the windows but it doesn't seem to be leaking there. It does seem to be leaking at the horizontal alum siding seams. I'm not sure what to seal it with or how to accuratly find the leaks. :dead:
I'll check for responses from this message. Let me know if you figure out a good way to seal.
OK. Have decided to replace Bathroom floor. I tore up floor covering. There are two patches that have been previously made to subfloor. My plan is to just replace thse two patches. I didn't have a lot of time, and I made initial attempet ot remove toilet. Hard to get at bolts. It is a Thetford. It looks like an Aurora model, but I forgot to write the modle number down. Does this come apart to access hold down bolts? It looks lie this is a multiple piece assembly, and there is a seam at seat and bowl.
I am slso concerned about why there is so much water damage. it seems to be centered around the toilet. Before I button it up, I am going to test the toilet to see if there are any leaks in mechanism.
Somebody told me about a miracle prodcut called something like POR that apparently seals/preserves/strenghtens/converts rotted wood. Anybody here of it?
HI LT, if the toilet has a foot pedal flush, there is a bolt/nut right next to the foot pedal, if you lift the seat assy at about the 11 o:clock postion will be a 1 / 1.5" plug that will pop out allowing access to the other nut then the toilet will lift up(after the water line is disconnected). No the toilet does not come apart where your looking. These toilets have a water valve that goes bad/leaks after about 5/6 years and may leak unnoticed for a long time, causing the rot problem, or it could have been a leaking line connection or bad flange gasket(but not often for the flange gasket). Yes by allmeans test it before reinstallation, haven't heard of the product your inquiring about. Keep us posted as to your progress. :approve:
LT. you didn't say which model it was, I forgot there is a model that does come apart at that area, but it must first be removed and then about 20 screews removed and then it glued with sealant. If its that type/model then you'll be better off installing a new one.Good Luck :bleh: :approve:
Send me an email with your address. I'll ship you the one that came out of the Shasta. It's two bolts to the floor and a water line. It works fine, all you need is a can of gel coat from any marine store to make it the color you want.
OK, it's been awhile. With lousy weather and busy schedule haven't had much time to do much work. Howver, I am tearing out the bathroom floor and have been a little surprised at what I am finding. There is a layer of OSB then 3/4" of styrofoam then two layers of plywood. There are steel "stringers" but they are separated by about 36" in the largest span. The styrofoam appears to be part of the subfloor, and not there just for insulation! :question: Also, a large section of the floor was actually being supported by the holding tank (waste)! :dead: Several screws were actually screwed into the hodling tank! :dead: :dead:
I am adding floor supports using 3 x 1-3/8" steel channel bridging the original steel stringers. It ain't going to look pretty, but it will be much more stucturally sound than what is there now. I am stopping short of doing the entire floor, since I don't want this to turn into a Major project. I am just taking out the patch that was first put in. I don't want to tackle the floor by the tub, it actually seems OK, and I don't know exactly how it is supported.
It is taking much longer than I want it to, tough to work at remote site. Seems like I spend half of my time unloading and loading my tools (including generator) in addition to the one hour drive each way.
Hey, you sound like me!!(no time & too much rain) I didn't forget you!
Just got done switching the awning from the junk to the "new" one. I've spent more $$ in the last few weeks trying to get my truck fixed. The boss says it's time for a new one.
We did go camping Mothers Day weekend. Momma and the kids had a great time...looks like we'll be going again soon.
Off to the races (CT to DE)this weekend with the boys. Keep us posted and don't let the thing get the best of you.
Hi LT, all Dometic refers are made in Sweden, you'll have no problems installing, the only USA made refer is Norcold, and there really isn't a nickles worth the difference between them. :laugh: :bleh: :approve:
I have been following this thread with great interest as my parents full timed in a 28ft Avion for about 8 years back in the 70's. The Avion was a very high end trailer and served my parents well.
Here is a link to a place to get parts or even buy a reconditioned refrigerator. http://www.gasrefrigeration.net/service_manuals.htm